The Adventures of S.V. 'Anais'

The journey from Hinchinbrook to Cairns featured one weeks stay at Dunk, a two week stay on the Johnstone River at Innisfail
(to check out the local croc’s) and a weeks stay at Fitzroy Island. This is beautiful Dunk Island. On the Island we met two couples who are heading to Darwin for a Kupang, Indonesia Rally. It sounds like they are in for a treat and we wish them boat speed!

Our plan was altered at Innisfail when after crossing the bar at the Johnstone River on a 2m tide we discovered that 2m was not sufficient for our 1.8m drafted vessel and whilst we continued to cross the bar unobstructed by any obstacles our depth sounder alerted us of the shallow waters regularly.
Unfortunately for us, once we actually made it across the bar we proceeded to go “aground” on the inside of the first river bend.
Yes, a complete halt and with Dave’s reverse/forward manoeuvres were we freed a few minutes later.
A note was entered into the captain’s log - take that corner a bit wider next time and wait for 2.5m tide!
And, this is where our plans changed - the next 2.5m tide was not for another two weeks. Thankfully Innisfail was pretty and abundant with facilities and entertainment. On our exit we managed to avoid a similar mishap to our entrance and made our way to Fitzroy Island where we stayed for some snorkelling and more walks before heading to Cairns.

Our activities during our leg from Hinchinbrook Island to Cairns included walking around parts of Dunk Island, collecting coconuts, a visit to the Johnstone River Crocodile Farm, snorkelling at Fitzroy Island and catching a 3ft reef shark.
At the reptile park we handled a friendly snake, a 6 month old crocodile, blue tongue lizard, a frill neck lizard and was accosted by a black cockatoo.

We sat out the wet season at the Breakwater Marina in Townsville. Not exactly the most pleasant marina we have stayed in, but the people we met there were very genuine and good people.

During late January we had some good weather and sailed up to Rattlesnake Island with Trish and Lester from Lekimpa. We had a great weekend there. We always looked forward to taking a weekend trip up to Rattlesnake. Great spot for crays and swimming.

The cyclone season is at its end so now we have made the decision to head north and visit Cairns, Port Douglas, Cooktown and Lizard Island. Our original plan was to head around to Darwin and WA, but we have put this of until next year. We left Townsville on the 12th April 2008 to do a little exploring around Cairns. We have set no particular time schedule. Took the yacht into No 7 Creek to have a look around.

Whilst we were anchored at Haycock, the DC-DC charging system failed. This unit charged the 12v batteries from the 24volt batteries. We took a detour to Cardwell to send it off for warranty. In the interim we charged the 12v via the generator. The following day the generator water pump siezed. This came as a bit of a surprise as it was only rebuilt a few months earlier. We headed back into Port Hinchinbrook Marina to send the pump back to Townsville.

Sunrise over Hinchinbrook channel

Whilst we were at the marina in Port Hinchinbrook we made a big commitment. We purchased another 24 volt 165watt solar panel, and converted the original pair of 55watt panels from 24volt to 12 volt and a 30 amp regulator that would handle the three 165watt 24volt panels. With the potential of producing 15amps for the 24volt bank ( plus the wind generator) and 6 amps for the 12volt system I feel that we should have plenty of power on board.

Some pictures from inside No 7 Creek looking towards the Hincinbrook Isalnd range

Sunset over Cardwell taken from Garden Island

An early trip up the Hinchinbrook Channel toward the Port Hinchinbrook Marina.

Once we weighed anchor to depart Picnic Bay and head for the breakwater marina we had to head into the heavily breaking sea to avoid being rolled about to severely, it also gave us the opportunity to go with the wind and seas once we eventually changed course back to the channel. We managed to hit just over 10 knots with the headsail up and the engine running at around 1200rpm. Despite the heavy chop it was a relatively comfortable trip back across the paddock with the following sea. The helm is hard work as Anais does not particulary like a 1.5 to 2.0 m following sea, but it is a great feeling having her 28 ton surfing the crest of a wave.

Once back in the marina Princess settled back to shore life very quickly. Very nonchalant with the two cats on board Sunbird.

With Makulu on the slipway for repairs and Sakes back at the marina for work commitments, Amaya II back to her berth to fix a punctured rubber ducky leaving only Lekimpa and Anais with Trish and Les having to prepare for work in the next few days.

We weighed anchor around 0900hrs and headed south to Magnetic Island. Dropping anchor at Picnic Bay we went ashore in the dinghy and enjoyed a very pleasant lunch at the pub.

We stayed at Picnic Bay for two days, but the final day saw the winds pick up to 25 knots from the north east. It became very rolly so we decided to weigh anchor and head for the Breakwater Marina.

After spending a couple of days lounging around in the water and doing some snorkelling we had to move on again. Making our way back towards Townsville we dropped anchor on the sout west side of Rattlesnake Island on the lee side. In the afternoon we took the dinghy to shore with a few drinks, nibbles and our swimmers. Relaxing in the the crystal clear water with a drink and passing the nibbles around reminded me of the last 2 weeks. It was absolute bliss.

Several of the last nights have seen a very strong wind blow up from the south. This night was no exception and unfortunately Makulu dragged anchor a little and her rudders made contact with the reef punching a hole in one of the hulls. Fortunately the leak was kept at bay and Makulu made it safely back to the slipway for some repairs.

After a fairly torrid night rocking and rolling we weighed anchor around 0700hrs and steered a course south toward the Palm Islands. Today is Keato’s birthday and he is anchored at Curacoa Island with Amaya II and Makula. We heard there was going to be a party, so we couldn’t miss out on it.

Had a few drinks on Sakes with Steve and Suzie, then made our way to Makula for Keato’s birthday party. It was a great night with 14 people in attendance. We had a great meal and nobody fell overboard.

Today we weighed anchor around 0715hrs - destination to Otto Reef to see if we can catch a few fish. Motor sailed the distance. Crossed the shipping lane and had to give way to a couple of freighters. As we approached the reef we spotted a large number of sea birds catching dinner. Something was rounding the fish to the surface.

That evening we went aboard Cool Change and enjoyed a lovely smoked fish dinner with fresh fish that Linny had caught. The evening turned very choppy with a strong northerly coming in. It was quite a challenge getting back onto Anais from the dinghy. She was rolling extremely wildly. Had an uncomfortable night anchored on a reef with a 30 knot blowing.

We left the Marina around 1400hrs on New Years day. Our destination os to Gould and Garden Islands. We anchored there for the evening. Took the dinghy to shore, had a few drinks and a cooling swim.

After staying at Haycock Island for a few days, we weighed anchor and headed for Port Hinchinbrook marina for our new years eve dinner at the restaurant.

We had a fantastic evening and surprisingly felt quite good the next morning. We did a few loads of washing, filled the water tanks and headed out of the marina on the rising tide in the early afternoon headed for Gould Island to catch up with the others.

For the past two days we have been anchored off Haycock Island in the Hinchinbrook Channel. Many people have mentioned we have to see the Hinchinbrook Channel and so here we are. As we cruised down the channel with our auto pilot steering us on a course, we headed for the bow of the boat and both enjoyed some spectacular sight seeing. A few highlights include a giant waterfall, red coloured rocks amongst lush green tree growth covering acres of mountain peaks and mangroves lining the waters edge for eternity. We also kept a close look out for crocodiles but no sightings to date. Once anchored off Haycock Island, Bron was in Lester’s dinghy with Keato and headed for the creeks to lay crab pots. Subsequently we had crab for dinner yesterday.

I think we can put this years Christmas Lunch down as one of our best. We sat on Yanks jetty with our bon bons and crackers, shared an entree of crayfish, devoured turkey, pickled pork and roast lamb plus vegies with 7 sailing friends. Naturally, there was plenty of food, bubbles and laughter. The weather was picture perfect as the sun went down. Unfortunately, not the same story for today. We moved from Hazard Bay to Little Pioneer Bay earlier this morning as a strong wind warning was issued and the effects of a swell were saying move on. The wind was not meant to make the 25/30 knot mark north of Townsville but it did and continues on occasions to gust to 35 knots here at Little Pioneer Bay - some quiet lulls make the conditions bearable but not totally comfortable. Well, we have a good run of fine weather.

Today we are heading for Hazard Bay on Orpheus Island. I am writing this blog sitting in the rear cockpit of the boat whilst we are sailing along. Last night we stayed anchored off Palm Island near Barber Island. We had drinks, nibbles and a barbeque for dinner on ‘Cool Change’ - a 50 foot Riviera - who just happens to be passing us now (pictured to right). There was an amazing moon rise which created a wonderful boating atmosphere.

Once we anchored at Hazard Bay we prepared for drinks and dinner on Yanks jetty. Dave celebrated his birthday and a good time was had by all as we chatted and mingled and ate.

At Juno Bay, we ventured ashore and walked amongst the ruins of a leper colony that was operational on the island until 1971. It was fascinating piecing together the roles of the old structures. The old remains showed there was a wash room of some kind, possibly a surgical treatment area, a canteen and an old diesel generator, to name just a few. We did search for a grave yard which is said to contain headstones of the habitants of the colony but were unable to confirm the tombstones as still actually existing. We walked away with a weird feeling of destitution coupled with the thought that it was an incredibly scenic place to put a leper colony.

We had a fine day on the 21st of December, starting the celebration of Bron’s 40th with a champaign breakfast. The weather was picture perfect which meant it was hot and the best place to be was in the water. So, after breakfast (sometime around midday), we headed for the beach. We spent the afternoon sipping wine on the beach and in the water. Later that afternoon we barbequed some garlic bread and Dave served up a superb spaghetti bolognaise. And, that pretty much concluded the evening for Bron. It was a very merry day.

Trish and Lester have shown us the art of squidding and kindly gave Bron her own reel and squidding jig. We look forward to many squidding meals in the future.

When Dave and I set out on our adventure to travel and to live on our yacht we always thought yachting life was about planning, conserving and getting by. Today, however there is no feeling of doing with out. Dave and Lester fossicked around the reefs to produce the magic main course for tonights dinner wonderfully prepared by Trish. I provided the dessert and so once again we have a meal where all four of us have contributed.

I suspect crayfish will be on the menu again before the end of the holiday but I will not necessarily show the end results on our blog - just rest assured we are eating well.

Below is a picture of Anais at Eclipse Island on a calm morning. Photos courtesy of Trish.

It finally happened. Lester set up Bron’s rod for trolling and as soon as we set off for Eclipse Island the spoon was in the water. Later in the day, ‘zing’ went the rod. Bron took control of the rod and started the lengthy process of hauling in a catch. Dave slowed the boat to about 3-4 knots and grabbed the fish net. Soon afterwards we hauled in a 55cm spotted mackerel. I was excited and couldn’t wait to tell Trish and Lester. I later discovered that apparently 55 cm is quite a small mackerel for this area. That’s cool it means we are more motivated to try again and go for something bigger. Thanks to Trish for cooking the mackerel and making it into an awesome dinner for us.

Today we sailed to Eclipse Island. We celebrated the first catch with a formal dinner. Here are the guys all dressed up!

After a rush to get the last minute things organised on the boat on Saturday morning, we were finally heading for West Point on Magnetic Island at around 2pm. Shortly after anchoring we headed for the beach and spent the afternoon sitting in the water. A long period had passed and then we were joined by a jovial fellow by the name of Ron. Ron kindly invited us back to his ’shack’ on the island and so we made it back to our boats gathered nibbles and drinks and headed for Ron’s place. It was a relaxing evening - sharing stories/tales with Ron and his mate Steve whilst listening to music. The wallabies and possums joined us on the vacant lawn beside our table, nibbling on seeds, crackers and the odd carrot. Eventually, Ron started to give us the hint that it was time for us to leave. The candid slander to get lost was closely followed by a black out and left us wondering if Ron was serious about wanting us to leave. We managed to get power again and drank some more. As the third batch of rain started to fall, we were all wondering what part of the contents of our boats were getting soaked so we packed up our things and headed for home.

We are experiencing such mixed emotions. Why did she decide to go versus why did she decide to return? Yes, a very hungry and thirsty cat is back on our boat. We have no idea as to what she has been up to for the past 48 hours except causing much anxiety and grief to her owners. We did ask but the response was along the lines of “who are we to question a four legged feline!", and that my friend is the end of our story.

Our ‘Princess’ is missing. On Saturday evening we returned home from dinner with some friends from Brisbane only to discover ‘Princess’ was no where to be found. We searched every finger with in the marina through out the night, rattling her food bowl but all to no avail. Usually the food bowl brings her scampering from some hide-away hole with in seconds. We are hoping that a notice we posted on the marina facilities block will bring some information about her whereabouts to us. In the meantime, we are going about our business preparing ourselves for the worst. We have a generator fix it man due today and we still have 3-4 tracks to fit to the deck of the boat. I think we will be booking in for another week at the marina.